"There’s probably no stronger feeling inside me than my love for Hungary,” says Katalin Kovács-Boldizsár, co-founder of Budapest Wonderguides. The Hungary-based tour company organizes private excursions through Budapest and the surrounding countryside—including a Christmas Market tour that helps first-time visitors celebrate the festive season in Budapest.
Katalin, a local from Budapest (she comes from the Pest side of the Danube River) has always been fascinated by Budapest’s history and cultural heritage, as well as the stories and legends that she encountered during her travels. This led her to start offering tours in 2013, and she’s enjoyed giving visitors a nuanced perspective on Hungary’s vibrant and storied capital ever since. As she says, the goal is to make every visit as “fun, adventurous, and memorable as possible.”
Even during pre-Christian times, ancient Hungarians practiced festive pagan rituals to enliven the darkest days of winter. Europe is a special place to celebrate Christmas, blending old traditions with Christian customs. And Katalin, loves to highlight the historical and enchanting atmosphere of this destination during the holiday season.
Budapest is both warm and joyful during Christmas. The city is adorned with colorful decorations, there’s a special tram decorated with Christmas lights, Advent candles are lit each Sunday, and there are fully decorated Christmas trees all over the city. And let’s not forget, some of the best Christmas markets in Europe are in Budapest.
In addition to Christmas Eve on December 24 and Christmas Day on December 25, other notable December holidays celebrated during the lead-up to Christmas include Saint Nicholas Day (Mikulás, in Hungarian) on December 6, when well-behaved children are rewarded with sweets and naughty kids are punished by the the devil-like figure Krampus; along with Saint Lucy’s Day on December 13, known for its unique tradition of scanning for witches detectable only to people standing on a special chair, known as “Lucy’s Chair.”
Nothing says wintertime like a hearty and traditional Hungarian meal, from roast goose liver to beef cheek goulash. Head to Gundel Restaurant—serving up classic dishes to a Budapest clientele since 1894—for a lavish 3- or 4-course menu. And, while it’s obviously not Christmas-y, Katalin also recommends the family-run, Hungarian-Jewish Rosenstein Restaurant, which boasts its own decadent menu of Hungarian and Ashkenazi classics ideal for the wintry climate, such as stuffed cabbage and matzo ball soup.
Round out your meal with a bite of szaloncukor, a chocolate and marzipan Christmas candy that you can find at legendary confectionaries such as Stühmer or Szamos, which has a chocolate museum and café.
Head to Castle Garden Bazaar—a 19th-century neo-Renaissance palace complex located south of the Chain Bridge on the Buda side—on each of the four Sundays of Advent in December. There, you’ll find a contemporary arts and crafts fair and plenty of unique souvenirs.
However, the largest Christmas market and the best place for holiday shopping in Budapest is in Vorosmarty Square, home to over 100 stalls, while the Advent Fair and Festival by St. Stephen’s Basilica is another great spot to pick up craft items including homemade ceramics, handbound books, and artisanal toys as well as spiced gingerbread or savory patés.
The 5-star Kempinski Hotel Corvinus Budapest offersa festive 4-course holiday menu in its on-site restaurant, ES Bisztró’s—including a vegan alternative, with options such as orange-scented tofu and baked pumpkin. They also serve mulled wine on their special Christmas terrace, for the ultimate cozy winter experience.
You’ll also find many hotels next to the city’s biggest and longest-running Christmas market at Vorosmarty Square (Vörösmarty Tér), including Prestige Hotel—housed in a converted 19th-century neoclassical palace—and Aria Hotel, which offers a special Winter Wonderland package and its own 4-course lobster and halibut Christmas dinner. They’re all within easy reach of public transportation, too.
Topping the list of things to do in Budapest at Christmas, City Park Ice Skating Rink (Városligeti Műjégpálya) is the largest outdoor ice rink in Europe, and certainly one of the oldest, and is also where you can skate alongside dreamy Vajdahunyad Castle. In Lumina Park, out on Margaret Island, you can stroll through fairytale-esque LED installations for a festive and family-friend sound and light show.
Most of all, you won’t want to miss browsing the many Christmas markets in Budapest. Consider joining a walking tour to visit them, plus top attractions such as Heroes’ Square and Buda Castle, with a guide. Many—like Katalin’s Christmas Market crawl—include a hot cup of chocolate or mulled wine, or the coiled, Hungarian-Transylvanian pastry known as a chimney cake.