Know Before You Go: Eating Cicchetti in Venice

Venice’s take on Spanish tapas, these small plates—pronounced chi-ket-tee—range from simple finger foods such as marinated olives or vegetable tempura to mini portions of more elaborate fish or meat dishes. Typically served on toasted bread in Venice’s tiny traditional bars (called bàcari), “the right time to try cicchetti is just before noon and in the evenings between 6pm and 8pm, when everything comes out of the kitchen nice and fresh, in a continuous stream,” says Cesarato.

Like many of Italy’s culinary traditions, the origins of cicchetti (also spelled cichetti) have been lost over time. “It is a centuries-long tradition, typical of the city of Venice,” according to Cesarato. “The word cicchetti comes from the Latin ciccus, meaning ‘a small amount’.”

Choose a selection of cicchetti from the overflowing platters in the display case and wash them down with a small glass of house wine—or an ombra in Venetian—ordering just enough to whet the appetite for your upcoming meal or going back for more to satisfy your hunger completely.

Ombra, meaning “shade or shadow” in Italian, has a deeply local meaning in Venice.“ Born in St. Mark’s Square Venice’s historic marketplace, people loved to stand in the square to talk, but chatting under the sun made them thirsty so the market’s wine sellers began to offer small glasses of wine from their stalls,” explains Cesarato, before adding, “To keep the wine cool in the summer, these wine sellers would move their stands around the square’s bell tower during the day to stay in its shade. Hence the name ombra, or ‘shade’.”

Enter the bàcaro or wine bar (there is never table service for cicchetti) and choose from the selection displayed at the counter. You can order your favorites individually or leave it up to the server by simply requesting an assortment. Most bàcari are pocket-sized establishments with just a few tables, so you’ll have to be very lucky to find seating. Instead, enjoy your Italian tapas standing among the chatting happy-hour crowd inside or spilling out into the street along the Grand Canal.

If you find a bàcaro with a great cicchetti spread, linger for a second (or third) round and make a meal out of the offerings there. Otherwise, do as the Venetians do and make it a moveable feast, strolling between bàcari and sampling the top cicchetti at each. A giro d’ombra (cicchetti crawl) is a great way to combine dining, sightseeing, and local culture.

Cicchetti is an umbrella term that includes a wide variety of snacks and dishes, and many bàcari have their own house cicchetti specialties. However, there are several classics that you’ll find in most spreads:

• Fritti (fried): Deep-fried delicacies are one of the most common types of cicchetti. Try breaded and fried mini mozzarella balls and arancini (small balls of rice and ground meat), or crowd-pleasing vegetable or seafood tempura.

• Crostini (little toasts): Another popular cicchetti variety, crostini are slices of toasted bread featuring an endless variety of toppings. You’ll find meat or fish paté; cheeses and charcuterie; or interesting combinations such as hard-boiled egg and anchovies, caprino (goat cheese) and marinated porcini mushrooms, or gorgonzola with honey and walnuts.

• Meat: Venice is set directly on the Adriatic Sea, so traditional cicchetti lean more towards fish and seafood specialties than meat, but there are a few meaty classics. Search out polpette (small meatballs), rumegal (veal stomach), and fegato alla veneziana (liver topped with onion and parsley).

• Fish: Fish and seafood cicchetti are the most traditional and beloved. Sarde in soar (marinated sardines and onions tossed with raisins and pine nuts), baccalà mantecato (creamed cod served over a square of polenta), baccalà vicentina (a crostino spread made of cod, anchovies, and onions), and moscardini (tiny octopus) and polenta are musts in any bàcaro worth its salt.

• Salads: Larger cicchetti spreads include a variety of vegetarian or meat and fish combinations, including marinated green beans and sweet peppers; peas with pancetta, onions, and ground pepper; anchovies with marinated onions; and octopus and potato salad.

There are several popular bàcari located across the Floating City and they’re hard to miss, thanks to their buzzy crowds that spill onto the sidewalk outside. Cesarato recommends these top options for authentic cicchetti:

• Al Timon (Fondamenta degli Ormesini) in the Jewish Ghetto.
• Al Portego (San Lio) in Castello.
• The two El Sbarlefo outposts, one on Salizada del Pistor in Cannaregio and the other on Calle San Pantalon in Dorsoduro.

• How much do cicchetti cost? Cicchetti are either charged by the piece (each costing generally between €2 and €5) or by assortment (a €10 plate, for example). Some establishments require payment for each round, especially when it’s very busy, while others keep a running tab that you settle as you leave. An ombra or beer usually costs around €3, though a finer wine by the glass can cost up to €10.

• What can I drink with cicchetti? As mentioned above, Cicchetti is typically served with an ombra or small glass of house wine from the surrounding Veneto region. Most bàcari also offer higher-end wines by the glass, listed on a board near the bar. Otherwise, opt for Prosecco (a sparkling white wine produced in the hills just north of the city), a Spritz cocktail (soda, Prosecco, Aperol, or Campari, and a twist of orange), or a small beer.

• Is there any cicchetti etiquette I should know? It's common to eat cicchetti while standing up in traditional cicchetti bars (or bàcari) in Venice. Cicchetti are meant to be shared, so it's common to order a variety of dishes and enjoy them with friends or family. Order just a few cicchetti at first and then order more if needed. The smaller portions allow for sampling of a variety of dishes.

• Are there any vegan cicchetti? Yes, you can find vegan cicchetti options, especially as the popularity of vegan and vegetarian diets has grown in Italy. While traditional cicchetti often include seafood, meat, and dairy, many establishments now offer plant-based alternatives to cater to a diverse range of dietary preferences. Bruschetta with tomato and basil, grilled vegetables, stuffed mushrooms (mushrooms stuffed with a mixture of breadcrumbs, garlic, herbs, and olive oil for example), Caponata (a Sicilian dish consisting of eggplant, celery, olives, and capers in a sweet and sour sauce), artichoke hearts, olive tapenade, and Panelle (chickpea fritters) are all vegan possibilities for cicchetti.

• What is the most popular cicchetti in Venice? For quick reference, here are some classic and well-loved cicchetti options you might find in Venice.

  • Baccalà mantecato: A spread made from whipped salted cod, often flavored with garlic and olive oil, served on crostini.
  • Sarde in saor: Marinated sardines with onions, pine nuts, and raisins, offering a sweet and sour flavor profile.
  • Polpette: Small, seasoned meatballs, usually made with a mixture of meats and sometimes with a breadcrumb coating.
  • Crostini al nero di seppia: Crostini topped with cuttlefish ink, creating a rich and flavorful topping.
  • Bresaola with rocket and parmesan: Thin slices of air-dried beef (bresaola) paired with fresh rocket (arugula) and shavings of Parmesan cheese.
  • Tramezzini: Small, triangular sandwiches filled with various ingredients like tuna, egg, or vegetables (not traditional cicchetti but commonly found).
  • Caponata: A dish associated with Sicilian cuisine, featuring eggplant, celery, olives, and capers in a sweet and sour sauce.
  • Gamberi in saor: Marinated shrimp with a sweet and sour sauce, often containing onions, vinegar, and raisins.