To understand the drama of the Attari-Wagah border ceremony, it’s necessary to understand a bit about the history of India and Pakistan. The border here was created in 1947, when the British colonial rulers left the Indian subcontinent, dividing this are up into Hindu-majority India and Muslim-majority Pakistan. Political relations between the countries have been tense ever since, which is why the performance at the Attari-Wagah border can often seem hostile.
Many travelers head to the Attari-Wagah border (which is close to the Indian city of Amritsar and the Pakistani city of Lahore) just to see the ceremony. While you can visit from either side of the border, most spectators come from nearby Amritsar, India, where you can join a guided trip to the site.
The border is sometimes closed when relations between the two countries are at a low. Stay informed about the situation by reading the news and asking around when you arrive in Amritsar or Lahore.
Arrive at least an hour early for the ceremony, as it can get quite crowded.
The ceremony lasts about 45 minutes.
Bring your passports to the border; you may need them to see the ceremony.
To reach the Attari-Wagah border from Amritsar, you’ll need to take a local bus and then hire a rickshaw, or you can join a tour that includes transportation. Amritsar is less than an hour’s drive from the site. The border crossing is also about an hour’s drive from Lahore, Pakistan.
The Beating Retreat ceremony is held every evening, at 4:15pm in the winter and at 5:15pm in the summer. Avoid visiting when the weather is bad, as you’ll be outside for the duration of the ceremony.
One of Amritsar’s main draws is the Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib)—the holiest shrine in Sikhism.The gurdwara (house of worship) is, as the English name suggests, completely covered in dazzling gold, and the building is surrounded by a shallow holy pond. Religious chants echo from the temple throughout the day. Visitors from all spiritual backgrounds are likely to find it a special place.