Roughly 20 minutes from Reykjavik, the town of Hafnafjordur offers the best of all worlds: It’s Iceland’s third-most populous city (with some 28,000 residents), giving it all the amenities a traveler could need; it’s also cozy and easy to explore on foot, with Iceland’s signature wild nature and human history that goes back nearly 1,000 years.
If you’re looking for an alternative to Reykjavik, this is it. The walkable, amenity-rich harbor bustles with boat captains and anglers, locals and travelers, restaurants and museums; lava fields stretch out to thermal pools; and the Keflavik International Airport is about 30 minutes away. Though you’ll find plenty of culture here—it’s Iceland’s rock ‘n roll capital—for many travelers, the town’s main draw is access to nature. As the gateway to the Reykjanes Peninsula, there are nearly endless hiking, birding, whale-watching, and boating opportunities here. Tour operators in Reykjavik can usually accommodate travelers from Hafnafjordur as well.
From downtown Reykjavik, take bus number 1 to Hafnarfjordur—it’s about a 20-minute journey. Companies like Flybus can also stop here from the airport, though sometimes a specific request is required. Otherwise, you can hail a taxi or easily drive here via Iceland’s Route 40 from Reykjavik.
For most travelers, the only time to visit Hafnarfjordur would be June to August, when high temps hover around 55ºF (13ºC). That’s when you’ll get incredibly long days, too—around 21 hours. That being said, if you’d like to avoid crowds, get lower hotel rates, and nab a chance at seeing the northern lights, the closer you come to winter, the better.
Yes, you could skip Reykjavik if you wanted—there’s much to do in Hafnarfjordur. Consider exploring the bubbling mud pools at Hellisgerdi Lava Garden; gazing upon the Snæfellsjökull glacier from the Keilir Golf Course; touring the Hafnarfjordur Museum; spending a leisurely day on the harbor (lots of family-run restaurants); and checking out the annual Viking Festival in June or the festive markets held over the winter holidays.
