Cheesemonger Sabina Magyar’s Guide to Wisconsin

The Dairy State makes more than 600 varieties of cheese, and many Wisconsin cheeses regularly win awards at competitions all over the world. (Wisconsin is also the only state in the US where you can graduate from the Master Cheesemaker Program.) While Magyar admits that there are so many options that it’s hard to choose favorites, she recommends that newcomers start with the state’s classics.

One top option is Uplands Cheese, which makes Pleasant Ridge Reserve, an aged, alpine-style cheese that is the most-awarded cheese in American history. Other beloved makers include Marieke Gouda, which produces more than two dozen Dutch-style Goudas, and Carr Valley Cheese, the makers who put “bread cheese” (aka Finnish juustoleipä) on the US map.

Magyar also recommends tasting the cheeses made by Chris Roelli, a master cheesemaker working out of Shullsburg. “His Dunbarton blue is up there—it’s a unique cheese from an amazing guy and a must-try, for sure,” she says. For a taste of something from an up-and-coming producer, Magyar suggests trying the cheeses made by Blakesville Creamery in Port Washington. “Everything they do is fantastic,” she notes, from their fresh chevre to their Barnum blue.

Not surprisingly, Magyar recommends leaning on the expertise of your local cheesemongers (rather than going to a grocery store) when looking for new cheeses. The cheesemonger will ask you questions, get to know your likes and dislikes, and hone in on your likely favorites. Ideally, the shop will also let you taste the options before you purchase, like Magyar does. “This is why I have the kind of shop I have,” she says, noting that “it’s rare that someone doesn’t buy the cheese they taste.”

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Magyar says that the first tenet of cheese is that “a wonderful quality cheese is a standalone” that needs nothing but a moment of your time. That being said, she’s also happy to recommend pairings and ways of cooking with cheese. When cooking, Magyar sees cheese as a serious ingredient that can be used in almost any dish—and make or break the result. A high-quality cheese produces a high-quality result.

When creating pairings, it’s all about balance. If you’re pairing your cheese with a beer, for instance, you should consider the weights of both the cheese and the beer: a lighter beer, like a weiss, goes best with a lighter cheese, like a goat cheese. If you’re making a cheese board with multiple varieties, however, you’ll want a beverage that can run the gamut. “Sparkling wine and riesling go with a lot of cheeses,” Magyar says, explaining that cheese has fat and salt, so a drink that’s sweet, acidic, and fruity is a natural complement. “Beaujolais, which is fresh and not at all heavy, is great, too,” she says.

Milwaukee’s restaurants also offer great ways to enjoy the local cheeses—and lots of other flavors. For a bona fide foodie experience, Magyar recommends Birch, located downtown. “They’re an all-around fantastic restaurant—they do new American cuisine, and they do serious things with cheese,” she says. Spots like Lakefront Brewery and Odd Duck also offer classic takes (read: curds) and newer, inspired twists on all things Wisconsin.

Then, of course, there are the city’s farmers markets. ”We have quite a lot,” says Magyar, “and a lot of them come with [on-site] cheesemakers.” There’s also a plethora of festivals, like TosaFest, in September, where you can meet makers and sample local goodies. And all across Wisconsin, from Little Chute to Green Bay, cheese-filled events cover the calendar. (This year, there’s even a Wisconsin Cheese Ball in Madison.)

Lastly, while Milwaukee may be Brew City, Magyar notes that there’s also an exciting Bloody Mary scene; hit up spots like Steny's and Wicked Hop for notable and over-the-top takes on this classic cocktail. She also recommends visiting local cafés: the art deco–style Café at the Plaza Hotel and the café inside the fabulous Milwaukee Art Museum (which boasts beautiful views of Lake Michigan) are two of her favorites.

When it comes to where to make your home base, Magyar’s top recommendation is to head to the neighborhood of Walker’s Point, the hub of Milwaukee’s LGBTQ+ community and its Latinx population. This industrial area turned cultural hub is like its own city, she says, with a food-truck park, the Iron Horse Hotel, great craft beer and cider, and countless restaurants.

If you want to venture outside of Milwaukee, Magyar recommends heading to Cedarburg, about 30 minutes away. The town has top restaurants, hosts food festivals—like one dedicated to strawberries in June and another for wine in the fall—and offers fantastic walking trails. It’s also got a quaint, old-fashioned feel, with art galleries and boutiques galore.

If you’re up for a longer drive, the city of Madison—home of the state’s flagship university—offers its own long list of things to do, many of which take advantage of the town’s access to a chain of lakes. You can stay right on the water at the iconic Edgewater Hotel, or book downtown if you want access to local cultural offerings.

A lot of Milwaukee’s identity revolves around the water—as does Wisconsin’s at large. Kayaking the Milwaukee River is a classic summer activity. If you want to pair your paddling with a drink, Magyar recommends heading to the Hubbard Park Beer Garden, the first public beer garden to open in the US after Prohibition ended. “It’s just gorgeous nature, right next to the river,” she says.

For an adventure slightly farther afield, head to Lion’s Den Gorge Nature Preserve, just north of the city, for a coastal hike, or go surfing in Sheboygan (a spot that’s particularly popular in winter, when the waves are especially high). For a quieter way to enjoy Lake Michigan, you can also simply sit in the Milwaukee Art Museum and take in the blue view from its windows.