The aroma of Turkish coffee drew me even deeper into Istanbul’s maze-like Grand Bazaar, where I’d wandered after an afternoon of sightseeing. I followed it straight to a traditional café packed with locals sipping from tiny glasses. I slipped into a corner table, using my phrasebook Turkish to order a cup: “kahve, lütfen,” I said. Coffee, please.
With a slight bow, the waiter set down a foam-topped cup of coffee and a cube of Turkish delight—no takeout cups here. “The pace at a Turkish coffee shop is very relaxed,” says Robyn Eckhardt, the author of the cookbook Istanbul and Beyond. “You come, you sit down, and you’re prepared to take time for a cup of coffee.” Slowing down to the pace of coffee shop culture will earn you a taste of tradition. UNESCO added Turkish coffee to its list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2013, and coffee remains a delicious part of daily life in Istanbul.
You can order a coffee in cafés and restaurants across the city, but not all cups are created equal. The best Turkish coffee is made with freshly ground coffee, which helps produce rich aromas and a lush layer of foam, similar to the crema atop well-made espresso. Among Eckhardt’s favorites is Sark Kahvesi, an atmospheric shop inside the Grand Bazaar that’s decked out with polished copper and traditional textiles. For coffee quality alone, however, she heads to Mandabatmaz in Beyoglu, which is legendary for the thick foam that tops each cup.
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Ordering a Turkish coffee is the ideal time to practice your language skills—just a few key words can ensure you get the perfect pour. Start with the basics. Coffee is kahve (pronounced "kah-VEY"), but as filtered coffee and espresso are increasingly popular in Istanbul, it’s a good idea to specify Türk kahvesi, or Turkish coffee. Next, you’ll need to decide how much sugar you want, since Turkish coffee is sweetened before serving.
Don’t toss the thick grounds on the bottom of your cup; reading the future in coffee grounds has been a Turkish tradition for centuries. To peer into the future after your final sip, swirl the grounds around the cup, then turn it upside-down onto the saucer. Fortune tellers can then read the patterns left behind, interpreting swirls and streaks of grounds. If you’d like to experience the tradition, head to Melekler Kahvesi in Taksim. Not that you need to make a special trip. These days, Istanbul locals take matters into their own hands with an app that can be used to send photos of coffee grounds to on-call fortune tellers.
Brewing Turkish coffee is an ancient tradition—here’s how it goes from fresh beans to Istanbul cafés.