Welcome to Marseille. Let the city’s infallible energy carry you into the city center, but ideally via a transfer from the airport. That's because Marseille is a big city, public transport can often be confusing, and traffic in the summer months can be intense.

Begin by getting your bearings. Marseille is a city that’s ever evolving, so along with the old port, the cathedral, and Fort Saint-Jean, take time to discover the diverse, colorful street art scene. Berlin eat your heart out—there’s a new kid on the street art block.

As much as it pains me to recommend leaving Marseille, the calanques are worth the trip. Along the 13-mile (21-kilometer) stretch of coast between Marseille and Cassis (of liquor fame) are 26 rocky inlets, with highlights including beaches decorated with high-end seafood restaurants and hidden coves devoid of tourists. Exploring on foot or by boat will allow you to reach the least accessible of them, but be aware that footpaths are often hair-raisingly steep. Or, take an e-bike tour to avoid sweating out the near-vertical climbs in the heat.

Hit the museums. The Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean is my favorite, but fans of classical art will love the circa 1801 Marseilles Museum of Fine Arts, one of the oldest museums in the country. The building is pretty spectacular too, in a wing of the Palais Longchamp.

Did you come to Marseille to party? You should. With none of the queues, price tags, or pretentiousness of the Parisian clubbing scene, Marseille is the place to let your hair down and dance until the sun rises.