The Sicilian artist Filippo Bentivegna spent decades in the middle of the 20th century carving and sculpting faces into the landscape and trees surrounding his house, creating art that critics have called the work of both a madman and a genius. Bentivegna called the space, just outside the coastal town of Sciacca, his “enchanted castle.” Today, visitors can admire the countless sculptures both in and outside of the artist’s former home.
You can buy tickets in advance to skip the line at the home’s entrance and take a day trip from Marsala or Agrigento to this captivatingly singular spot, situated at the foot of Mount Kronio. Alternatively, you can join a multi-day tour that takes in highlights like the Scala dei Turchi and Ribera, as well as the Enchanted Castle.
Visitors to the outdoor sculpture garden will do a fair amount of walking, so wear sturdy shoes and bring a hat and sunscreen.
The garden is accessible to wheelchair users.
The gardens are family-friendly and kids enjoy spotting carved faces in the most unusual places.
Scaccia has a number of pristine beaches along the coastline, so pack your suit to take a swim before or after visiting the sculpture museum.
The Enchanted Castle is located in Sciacca on the coast of western Sicily between Agrigento and Marsala. Public transportation is tricky, so the best way to visit is with a guided tour or shore excursion that includes transportation.
The Enchanted Castle is open year-round, but hours change seasonally. If you visit during the summer, be aware that temperatures in Sicily can be grueling and the sculpture garden is almost exclusively outdoors; the best time to visit is in the morning or late afternoon.
During his lifetime, Bentivegna was known as “Filippo of the Heads,” and his reclusive lifestyle and eccentric habit of referring to himself as royalty made him the target of significant skepticism. Since his death in 1967, his unique style of self-taught art has gained praise, and today a group of 14 of his sculptures are on display in the Art Brut Museum in Lausanne.