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Lapped by the blue Mediterranean, the remains of Caesarea are crazy photogenic. Highlights from Herod’s time include a waterfront palace, an amphitheater, the theater, which hosts concerts during summer, and a sunken harbor—perfect for a guided snorkel or scuba adventure. A bathhouse marks the remains of a Byzantine-era governor’s mansion, while a fortified city survives from Crusader times. A couple of museums and an informative visitor center help navigate the site. Most travelers visit Caesarea from Tel Aviv, typically with other north coast attractions such as the Crusader city of Acre (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), historic Haifa with its gardens, and the Rosh Hanikra sea caves.
Caesarea National Park sits on Israel’s north coast, about a 37-mile (59-kilometer) drive north of Tel Aviv. Pick up an 825 bus from Tel Aviv Central Station, then change to the 76 at Hadera River Junction. It loops through modern-day Caesarea then returns to stop close to the visitor center.
Caesarea National Park is open seven days a week, with shorter hours during the winter season, and early closing on Fridays and before religious holidays. Try to avoid visiting on Fridays and Saturdays (the Israeli weekend) and public holidays, when it can get very busy.
Herod gets a bad rap in Christian belief, but the historical king (73–4 BC) was a master builder. Caesarea’s artificial harbor broke new ground in port design: His majestic cliff-top fortress, Masada, is recognized with UNESCO World Heritage Status, while his Herodium fortress-palace, in the West Bank, still dominates its artificial mountain.