Italy’s unofficial capital of “la dolce vita,” the Amalfi Coast is a dreamy combination of spellbinding views, unforgettable cuisine, and chic atmosphere. I had long imagined this iconic stretch of coastline before my first visit, so the stakes were high when I stepped off the bus and into Positano. And, much to my chagrin, I got it all wrong.
The seascapes, eateries, and vibe were all there, but they seemed just beyond my reach as I wrestled with clogged traffic, sold-out restaurants, and day trip crowds. In my many visits since, I’ve discovered that it takes a bit of effort to channel that “costiera” cool. Here’s how to experience the best of the Amalfi Coast the first time around.
The Mediterranean sun is unforgiving along the coastline in summer, so pack a hat and sunblock.
If you only have time for one thing, make it a boat trip along the coastline.
After docking in Amalfi, take a taxi to Ravello perched on the clifftop above. Stroll through the old town and marvel at the bird’s-eye view from the Terrace of Infinity at Villa Cimbrone. Your first dinner on the coast should be panoramic, so make reservations to nab a waterfront table at a beachside restaurant.
Head to the hills today and explore by land. Active travelers can hike the Path of the Gods and eat lunch at the trail’s end (book in advance), while gourmands can take a winery tour or learn about traditional lemon production with a farm visit.
Take an afternoon break at the beach. Rent an umbrella and lounger at top waterfront spots in Positano and outside Amalfi. If you arrive after 4pm, you’ll still have a few hours of sun, minus the crowds. For dinner, connect with an Italian host and sample classic, family-style dishes in a local home.
Set sail by ferry or private boat this morning to dedicate the day to Capri, the most famous and dazzling island in the Bay of Naples. Begin with a boat tour to circle the island by sea and admire its dramatic coastline, visit the Blue Grotto, and take a dip in the crystalline waters.
Then, dock for a few hours to explore on land. Stroll the elegant lanes of Capri town, hike the scenic trails, and visit the quiet inland village of Anacapri to browse the artisan shops before your return to the mainland.