Once fortified against a Russian invasion that never came, and again during both world wars to protect the precious harbor, the North Head Historic Reserve ultimately became the preeminent coastal defense system in all of New Zealand. There’s a self-guided walking path that points out many of the sights, and from the hill’s summit looking out over Devonport, visitors are treated with a view of Waiheke Island, the Coromandel, and Auckland’s downtown skyline.
Departing from the Ferry Building, the 12-minute ferry runs to Devonport Wharf, which lies 1.2 miles (two km) from the North Head Reserve/Maungauika. It’s about a 30-minute drive from downtown Auckland and free parking is available. Vehicle and pedestrian access is via Takarunga Road, reached by following King Edward Parade along the waterfront, then turning left onto Cheltenham Road and taking the second road on the right.
The North Head Historic Reserve opens at 6am daily. The pedestrian gates at Takarunga Road and at the southern end of Cheltenham Beach close at 10pm, but the vehicle gate via Takarunga Road closes at 8pm.
The weapons here were cutting edge for the time they were built and installed, and included a pair of “disappearing guns” that would actually recoil back into the ground once they had fired a shot. The guns are visible at the South Battery, which along with tunnels dug by prisoners using light from flickering lanterns, are eerie reminders of the lengths it takes to defend a nation’s coast.
