Tucked away in the very south of the Gulf of Roses, Empúries is all that remains of a once great ancient port city, ruled by the Greeks and then the Romans from 575 BC. It is the only Roman and Greek settlement in the whole of the Iberian subcontinent that still has remnants of its buildings visitors can wander around.
At the site, see mosaic floors installed by Roman artists, and explore a specialist museum that discusses finds from the city in detail and gives context to the lives of the people who lived here thousands of years ago. Another huge plus for Empúries is that it has exceptional views over the coast, and after a good look around, you can stroll down to the beach for refreshments and local food at seaside cafés and bars.
It can get hot but windy in this part of the Costa Brava in the summer, so bring extra sun protection and layers.
There are plenty of places to visit after Empúries, making it an ideal day-trip destination.
A trip to Empúries can include quite a lot of walking in exposed areas, so be sure to take plenty of water and stop in the shade often.
You can reach Empúries from the beach, if you’d like to walk from any of the coastal resorts along the Costa Brava. There are buses that can take you to the site, but they’re infrequent, so check updated timetables before you set off. Local tour operators offer excursions to Empúries.
Empúries is open Tuesday to Sunday. Admission is free on the last Tuesday of every month, and while this makes it a busy time to visit, it’s ideal if you just want a quick look around. The site can get busy in the early afternoon, so a morning visit is best to avoid the crowds.
Just down the coast from the ancient ruins of Empúries is the cove beach of El Portitxol. A quiet locale despite the bars and restaurants in close proximity, this rocky coastline is home to dramatic natural rock formations that arch into the sea. Nearby is the Convent Beach, where you’ll find golden sand and calm waters for swimming.