Tiny Ersfjordbotn sits roughly 12 miles (20 kilometers) west of Tromsø on the island of Kvaløya. Far enough away from the city to have dark skies perfect for stargazing and aurora-chasing, but close enough to enjoy all the amenities of Tromsø, Ersfjordbotn has one foot each in the world of nature and culture.
In summer, locals and visitors head here for rock climbing, wildlife-viewing (whales!), and hiking in the forested mountains, and to kayak, sail, and canoe along the fjord’s clear waters. Come winter, it’s all about skiing, snow-shoeing, dog-sledding, and watching the skies dance in ribbons of purple and green.
When you visit is drastically going to change what you experience—and what you’ll need to wear. Dress appropriately.
If you take the bus, Nattmålsfjellet and Buren—two mountain hiking trails—are walkable from the bus stop.
Café Bryggejentene has arguably the town’s best views of the fjord below.
Sommarøy Island, Kvaløya’s sibling, has white beaches that are also worth a visit.
To drive to Ersfjordbotn, take the Sandnessund Bridge from Tromsø, which connects the city to the island of Kvaløya; it takes about 30 minutes, depending on where you start in the city. You could also hop on bus No. 425 from Tromsø, though that takes about 1 hour.
When to visit Ersfjordbotn entirely depends on what you want to experience. Summer and winter offer two entirely different itineraries, and anywhere from 0 to 24 hours of daylight, as Tromsø experiences no darkness from late May to late July. If you’d like to avoid crowds and are willing to risk weather not cooperating, head for a shoulder-season visit.
Take a look at the map—the northern slopes of the Ersfjord are steep. That’s OK, as they’re best photographed, anyway: these cliffs plummet some 3,250 feet (1,000 meters) into the fjord below, making for quite the sight. You can appreciate their grandeur from the south side of the fjord, which is woven with hiking and cycling paths, plus climbing and bouldering routes for skilled mountaineers.
