A Beginner’s Guide to Buenos Aires’ Parrillas (and Which Ones To Visit)

The word parrilla—pronounced “pa-ree-sha” in Argentine Spanish—means grill and can refer to any steakhouse or food cart that grills meat. (Argentines call a barbecue at home an asado.) What makes Argentine parrillas different from other grilling restaurants around the world is their use of both fragrant wood and wood-base charcoal to cook the meat slowly throughout the day, allowing the meat to tenderize and develop a flavorful crust. Parrillas also cook a variety of meats—including offal (achuras) like intestines, liver, and kidneys; and sausages like blood sausage (morcilla) and chorizo—all together on the same grill. The ratio between firewood (leña) and charcoal (carbón) depends on the griller, called a parrillero. Typically, firewood is more popular than charcoal in the countryside, and the reverse is true in cities, but this isn't always the case.

To build the ideal fire, the parrillero starts a fire on just one side of the grill, using pieces of tinder including sticks, paper, or cardboard. Next, they stack small pieces of firewood on top, as if forming a beachside bonfire. As the fire grows, they add more charcoal, larger pieces of firewood, or a mixture of the two.

Once the firewood and the coals have become red hot, the parrillero carefully moves them to the other side of the grill, distributing them to allow a balance of heat across the cooking surface. Then they cook the meat—seasoned with coarse salt—over the coals. The low heat and smoke create a crust of flavor around the meat, sealing in the juices and aroma.

The style of grilling used at parrillas has evolved over centuries and is based on that used by the gauchos, or cowboys, who work in the Pampas, the country’s vast grasslands. In the late 19th century, Argentina birthed one of the world’s most powerful cattle industries, and at the time, the gauchos who maintained the herds of cattle had little access to anything but fresh meat and salt. For them, the easiest way to cook was to put this meat over an open flame. They found that if they selected the most aromatic wood and seasoned the meat with just a little salt, they could still give the meal a wonderful flavor. Over time, the grilling techniques of the Argentine countryside also became popular in big cities.

As Buenos Aires grew into one of the world’s wealthiest cities and restaurants opened up there, entrepreneurs found that everyone loved the flavors of the Pampas. Finding that they had both readily available, free-range beef and a wealthy clientele hungry for steak, many restaurateurs decided to open high-end parrillas aimed at attracting well-heeled clients. Others opened more accessible parrillas for the working class. Today, you’ll see parrillas at work sites, in parks, and even built into high-rise apartment buildings. This style of eating has become part of everyday life for all Argentines at every level of society.

Whether you’re eating at an award-winning parrilla or at a food cart, the etiquette largely remains the same: You talk, share portions of meat, and eat slowly. An asado (at a home or a restaurant) is meant to be a slow meal.

Argentines typically visit parrillas in groups, but solo travelers can enjoy a smaller and less formal meal, too. You can eat at a parrilla any day of the week (though they are often closed on Mondays). Many parrillas open for lunch at noon, close in the late afternoon, and open again for dinner. If you’re going on the weekend, or if the parrilla is more formal, you’ll need to make reservations at least one day ahead of time. For street carts and more casual parrillas, you can just show up.

If you’re planning to visit a parrilla, it’s worth noting that Argentines eat late compared to most Americans. Peak lunch hours are from 12pm to 2pm, and dinner usually runs from 9pm to 12am. If you want to beat the dinner crowds, you can show up early, at 7pm, and have the entire place to yourself.

As Argentina is one of the world’s great wine producers, it’s customary to drink wine at a parrilla—usually a malbec or another full-bodied red. Many locals also order carbonated water (agua con gas) or soda like Sprite or Coca-Cola. In the summer, do as the locals do: Order an inexpensive bottle of red wine and mix it with ice and soda water.

What you’ll never see at a parrilla or home asado are spice rubs. Simple coarse salt and maybe some cracked pepper are all that’s needed. According to many Argentine barbecue aficionados, to season meat of this caliber with anything else is insulting.

Parrilla menus can be tricky to navigate. Spanish names for the different cuts of beef and the way prices are listed for kilogram or half-kilogram cuts can be confusing for first timers. Large groups traditionally order a plate of meat that includes a little bit of everything. The meats and sides come out all at once, and people share the meal, family-style.

If you’re dining solo or as a couple, and you only want to try a few items, you can, however, order a small portion of one or two cuts plus a side. (Just keep in mind that the portion sizes are large, and you’ll likely go home with leftovers.) If you’re not with a large group, but you still want to sample a little bit of everything, order a parrillada, an assortment that usually includes rib eye (ojo de bife), short ribs (tira de asado), the super sought-after tenderloin (lomo), and some offal. Depending on the parrilla, you may even get a chicken thigh thrown in for good measure. A parrillada can serve one to four people, but the most common type is a 2-person parrillada, which, contrary to its name, actually contains enough food for three hungry people.

In recent years, vegetables have also become more popular in parrillas, though often they have to be ordered separately, at an additional cost. These might include slices of squash, onions, and potatoes, all grilled to perfection beside the meat. The one indispensable (and sometimes only) greenery on the plate is chimichurri sauce. This combination of chopped parsley, dried chili pepper, onion, and garlic mixed with olive oil and vinegar is one of the greatest compliments to smoky meat ever invented. You’ll also find salsa criolla—a mixture of tomato, onion, vinegar, and oil—included with the meal, as a condiment. Argentines usually take a spoonful of the sauces and then add just a little to every bite.

To round out your meal, you’ll want to order carbohydrates like papas a la provenzal (fried potatoes) or puré de papas (mashed potatoes) on the side. Another excellent side dish is provoleta, a seasoned and grilled hunk of cheese that’s gooey, smoky, and delicious.

Argentines usually eat their steak well done, but most waiters at upscale parrillas will ask their guests how they want things cooked, and it’s perfectly fine to order your meat to your preferred doneness. Order bien jugoso if you want rare (though this usually comes medium-rare), jugoso for medium, or a punto for medium well. If you truly love your meat cooked through, then tell them you’d like it bien cocido.

El Pobre Luis: Named after the late grill master Luis Acuña, this beloved standby in the Belgrano neighborhood is the perfect place to experience a parrilla for the first time. El Pobre Luis’ affordable menu, casual interior—soccer jerseys and knick knacks cover the walls—and delicious food makes it a must-visit spot.

Los Talas del Entrerriano: You’ll find Los Talas del Entrerriano just outside of Buenos Aires’ city limits, in the city of Jose Leon Suarez. This rustic parrilla specializes in roasting meat in the old-school style, on a stake over an open fire. If you want to see how Argentina’s gauchos cook their meat in the countryside, this is the place for you.

El Secretito: How can a place with no visible name and a permanent closed sign on the door stay in business? By serving some of the best barbecue in the city. This charming secret parrilla is located in the Las Cañitas area of the large neighborhood of Palermo. Just look for the blue building with its (now iconic) blue and white striped sign saying cerrado (“closed”) and knock. Inside, you’ll find a very casual atmosphere with soccer jerseys and memorabilia covering the walls.

La Brigada: Swanky La Brigada is tucked into the San Telmo neighborhood, one of the oldest parts of Buenos Aires. This high-end dining destination offers ultratender, deluxe cuts of beef plus other tasty morsels—such as wild boar sausages and goat (offal)—plus an expertly curated wine list.

Don Julio: Every day—yes, even Mondays—crowds of people line up in the Palermo neighborhood, waiting to dig into a steak at one of Latin America’s 50 best restaurants. In a city full of award-winning restaurants, Don Julio is truly a gem. With one of the most expertly crafted wine lists in the city, high-quality ingredients, and an astounding attention to detail, this spot offers a meal that is so good it might be life changing.

La Cabrera: This classic, high-end parrilla is located in the trendy Palermo Soho neighborhood. For years, the restaurant’s massive portions and delicious food have made it one of the city’s most treasured places for high-quality steak. In fact, like its nearby competitor Don Julio, La Cabrera is listed as one of the 50 best restaurants in Latin America.

Parque Tres de Febrero: This popular Palermo park, known for its lagoon and rose garden, is home to a number of small parrillas specializing in choripán. These sandwiches are made up of juicy and smoky chorizo sausages that are served on thick slices of bread and seasoned with zesty chimichurri sauce. Join the locals for a walk in the park followed by a choripán eaten while watching the antics of the ducks and parakeets that call the area home.