Perhaps the most famous of India's seemingly innumerable celebrations, Holi, also known as the Festival of Colors, commemorates the victory of good over evil and honors the supreme love between Lord Krishna and his consort, Radha.
While the festival involves all sorts of customs (many of which vary from community to community), most people associate Holi with one of its main traditions: tossing powdered and liquid colors on friends and family. Want to experience Holi in India for yourself? Here’s what to know before you go.
Holi is a movable feast, celebrated on the day of the full moon of the month of Chaitra (also known as Phalguna) in the Hindu calendar. This generally equates to some point in late February or early March, but make sure to check the exact dates before making any plans.
The first day of the festival, known as Holika Dahan or Chhoti Holi (“Little Holi”) is celebrated to varying degrees, usually with bonfires that symbolize the burning of Holika, an asuri (an evil supernatural being) in the triumph of good over evil. The main Holi festivities occur on day two, known as Rangwali Holi, or Dhulandi. This marks the beginning of spring, and shortly after Holi, the temperatures in North India start to climb.
Although most people refer to the color part of Holi as “playing Holi,” the experience is more like a (colorful) snowball fight than an organized game. Dry, powdered colors are mainly used, though plenty of people opt to play Holi with liquid colors, usually delivered using water guns or water balloons. A lot of people play Holi with friends and neighbors, perhaps on the street in front of their homes or in their back gardens.
If you’re out in a public area, it’s not uncommon to be approached by strangers that may gently smear a bit of color on your face while wishing you a happy Holi. Unfortunately, some use Holi as an excuse to forgo any notions of consent, dousing color on unsuspecting strangers or even touching people without permission. Be on your guard if you’re out and about on Holi, particularly if you encounter groups of teenage boys or young men.
Insider tip: If you’re offered thandai (a drink made of almonds, milk, and herbs), be aware that it may contain bhang, an intoxicating cannabis preparation. Bhang thandai is typically consumed on Holi, and the effects are much stronger and more psychedelic than what most people experience from smoking.
White clothes are best for Holi, but make sure you wear something that you are willing to throw away afterward (and that includes undergarments). It’s also wise to wear something comfortable that won’t restrict your movement or cause you to trip.
It’s also smart to cover exposed parts of your body with some sort of oil (most people use coconut) about half an hour before you go out to play. Doing so will create a temporary buffer between your skin and the colors, and while the pigments will still “stick,” they’ll be much easier to wash off later. If you have sensitive skin on your face and can’t tolerate oil, a thick layer of moisturizer is a decent alternative.
Insider tip: Avoid washing your hair for at least a day before playing Holi. The natural oils will help protect your scalp and hair from colors.
Now that you’ve picked out your outfit, it’s time to buy gulal, or colored powder, to toss on fellow participants. Just be careful, as some commercial colors contain agents that can be harmful, from dyes known to cause rashes to dangerous chemicals such as lead oxide.
Fortunately, it’s easy to track down gulal made from natural substances such as flowers and herbs. Reliable brands include Red Earth, Organic India, and Earth Inspired, which supports the non-profit Antarkranti Prisoner Reformation and Rehabilitation Program. Herbal colors are widely available in markets, health food stores, and Fab India clothing chain outlets.
Insider tip: You can make your own Holi colors at home using simple ingredients such as flour or cornstarch and food coloring.
While Holi is celebrated all over Northern India, the wildest celebrations are in the Braj area of Uttar Pradesh, notably in the twin towns of Mathura and Vrindavan, which are associated with Lord Krishna and Radha. The festivities here start days in advance, and people travel from across North India to get in on the action.
The state of Rajasthan is another exciting destination for Holi festivities. Some hotels in popular tourist destinations such as Jaipur and Udaipur put on Holi parties for guests, and the small oasis town of Pushkar throws a huge street party that’s especially popular with international backpackers.
Insider tip: India’s metropolitan cities are also great for Holi, including Delhi and Mumbai. These cities often have ticketed events such as parties and music festivals that add an extra layer of security to the celebrations.
In Kerala, Holi is known as Manjul Kuli or Ukuli, primarily celebrated by members of the Konkani community (many of whom have roots in Karnataka and Goa). Traditions are a bit different than those found in much of the north, and water mixed with turmeric (and sometimes other colored substances) is usually used instead of gulal.
In Tamil Nadu, the first day of Holi coincides with Masi Magham, a purnima (full moon) observance where devotees parade with idols to a body of water for a purifying ritual bath. However, if you really want to celebrate the colorful way, simply head over to Pondicherry, a former French colony south of Chennai, where Holi events are held annually.
Related: 15 Traditional Indian Foods and Drinks To Try on Your Next Trip