Most people harbor a certain idea of what India is like—spicy food, polluted cities, bustling bazaars—often inspired by books, movies, or that friend who’s been-there-done-that. But India, and especially New Delhi, is much more complex than media representations often give it credit for. In many ways, the capital city is a microcosm of modern India’s contradictions: cosmopolitan and rooted in tradition, simple and chaotic, all at once. Here’s how to navigate Delhi like the locals do.
Ignore the dreamy Instagram posts, because while the winter temperature in Delhi may be more comfortable for those arriving from the West, there’s much more than Christmas in the air. The Air Quality Index (AQI) of Delhi regularly goes into the “very poor” and “severe” zones from October to January, thanks to an unfortunate convergence of natural and man-made phenomena. So, unless you wish to shave off a few hours of your life (true story), skip winter in favor of the advent of spring (February–March) or fall (August–September).
Don’t be fooled by the name, Khan Market is simply Delhi’s high street and you’ll want to dress in your finest attire for a stroll here. Home to high-end apparel, accessories, books, homeware, and electronics stores, alongside buzzing cafés, bars, and restaurants, Khan Market has it all.
Sarojini Nagar, Chandni Chowk, and Janpath, are on the opposite end of the spectrum, however. Go here for the best bargains, although you’ll have to perfect the nonchalant attitude of a local to get the best deals. Here, wear comfortable walking shoes and carry plenty of water.
Insider tip: Most Khan Market, Chandni Chowk, and Janpath shops are closed on Sundays. Meanwhile, Sarojini Nagar and Karol Bagh are closed on Mondays.
I get it, tuk-tuk rides may be a novelty. And taking a tuk-tuk (known locally as “auto-rickshaws”) to get around the city does support the local economy. But if you’re a foreigner who’s unaware of local distances and rates, you might be taken for a ride (pun intended).
So, before you approach a 3-wheeler, check what taxi apps like Uber or Ola are charging for the same ride. Another way to avoid getting fleeced is to insist on going by the meter, but you’ll find few takers for this model and will have to know the shortest route to the destination.
Every New Delhi city guide will inevitably talk about its food. And why wouldn't it? The Indian capital serves up some delicious fare from around the country. But while Delhi’s street food is flavorful and authentic, it’s rarely prepared in hygienic conditions, and Westerners are especially prone to tummy problems from eating on Delhi’s streets. Given that, stick to well-reviewed restaurants, many of which offer dishes traditionally associated with Indian street food. Or opt for a guided street food tour and be shown the safest spots to snack.
The term “rickshaw” (without the “auto”) refers to a completely different mode of public transport than the 3-wheeled tuk-tuk. It’s a wagon pulled by a bicycle that’s worked by a single—often, old and frail—person over short distances. There’s a queue of these outside every metro station at any given time, and they’re the key to last-mile connectivity in Delhi. It may seem like a cruel profession but this is how many underprivileged men earn a livelihood, so tip generously.
Every local in Delhi has been approached at least once by a stranger asking for monetary help in “getting back home.” It’s the most common con in the capital’s streets, designed to extract some money from gullibly compassionate outsiders. It may sound heartless, but walk away immediately in the opposite direction.
Young Indians aren’t conservative about love, and couples holding hands is a common sight. However, overt public displays of affection are still scorned upon by the older generation, and many boomers believe that the West has “corrupted” Indian culture.
While there isn’t a law against kissing in public, the laws governing “obscenity” are vague and open to interpretation, which explains why some Indian celebrities have faced trouble for acts ranging from nude beach runs to bold magazine photoshoots.
If you’re in Delhi around any of India’s national holidays—such as Independence Day (August 15) or Republic Day (January 26)—you’ll see an abundance of tricolor flags on the streets. But few realize that there are strict rules about the flag’s hoisting and display.
The Flag Code of India also forbids the use of the flag “as a portion of costume or uniform,” or as an accessory worn below the waist. When shopping for souvenirs, bear in mind that India’s national flag should not be embroidered or printed on cushions, handkerchiefs, napkins, undergarments, or any textile. If you’re unsure of any item bearing the flag colors—saffron, white, and green—then it’s best to avoid buying it.
Most Western visitors, especially first-timers, limit their India trip to the tried-and-trusted Delhi-Agra-Jaipur route. This cliché circuit is called the Golden Triangle, and while the allure of the Taj Mahal and Rajasthan’s many palace-hotels is undeniable, there’s so much more that can be explored from Delhi.
In fact, many Indians from all over the country travel to Delhi only to make road trips to scenic towns and hill stations in neighboring states such as Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, and Rajasthan.
You may see garbage on the streets of Delhi, but most of the metro trains and stations are spotlessly clean. Why? A strict set of rules. Namely—you can’t eat inside metro trains. Apart from preventing spills and litter, it’s a good way to keep spicy aromas off packed public transport. You also can’t take photographs inside the trains or stations either, a rule that’s almost impossible to enforce on phone cameras but one that makes bulky tourist cameras an easy mark for fines.