Indian Hotelier Sapna Bhatia’s Guide to Rajasthan
Some people don’t associate the desert with flourishing plant life. Hotelier Sapna Bhatia, the owner of Kaner Retreat, India's first desert botanical resort, is out to change that.
Sapna grew up on a farm in the city of Jodhpur, in Rajasthan, and some of her earliest memories involve playing in desert expanses, learning first-hand about the many plants and trees that grow wild in this part of India. After spending most of her adult life working as a broadcast journalist in Delhi and abroad, Sapna returned to Rajasthan to open Kaner. She introduces guests to the bounty of the desert through guided botanical walks and workshops as well as through with lovingly prepared meals featuring local ingredients native to the area’s ecosystem.
“Rajasthan is about the joy of discovering the unexpected,” she says, “and the hospitality of the locals.” Here are her tips for finding your joy in her welcoming home state.
Explore Rajasthan’s wild side
Rajasthan has long been celebrated for the architecture of the massive forts and beautiful palaces found across the state. Many of Rajasthan’s most popular destinations also have distinctly colorful historic areas, such as the salmon-hued Pink City of central Jaipur and the robin’s egg–hued old town that earned Jodhpur its “Blue City” nickname. While these areas are undeniably beautiful, Sapna points out that the state also has another equally interesting but often overlooked side: the state’s wilderness.
“You have the gorgeous sand dunes and wildlife in the Thar Desert, the leopards in Jawai, the environmental wisdom of tribes like Bishnoi,” Sapna says. “Spending a day with them is an inspiring experience.”
If you’re short on time, you can also experience Rajasthan’s natural side while you visit more famous sights. If you’re in Jodhpur, for instance, Sapna suggests visiting the Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park, a 170-acre (70-hectare) natural expanse at the base of Mehrangarh Fort. The park features include four walking trails, a visitor center, and a nursery where you can buy desert plants.
If you’re in Jaipur, Sapna suggests paying a visit to Kishan Bagh, a lesser-known desert park at the foot of Nahargarh Fort. The park was created through the process of rewilding sand dunes into roee—a type of shrubland found throughout Rajasthan. The park was created under the leadership of environmentalist Pradip Krishen, who also played a large role in the rewilding of Rao Jodha.
Sample desert cuisine
“Rajasthan primarily had a pastoral culture with a focus on dairy and mutton,” Sapna points out. “However, with vegetables arriving in this arid state, people have added new dishes to their cuisine.” Still, in most places, you’ll primarily find dishes made with ingredients that are easy to grow, and store, in desert conditions. Popular foods include dal baati churma, a 3-part dish of lentils, crisp wheat buns, and churma (a mixture of wheat, sugar, and ghee). For a special experience, Sapna suggests visiting Udaipur’s Ambrai Restaurant, where you can dine on both North Indian classics and dishes from the Mewar region of southern Rajasthan.
Snacks and sweets are also a big deal in Rajasthan, says Sapna. “Locals mostly flock to the local sweet shops for their namkeen, savory snacks often eaten in the evening with a cup of masala chai. People are very territorial about their namkeens, and we in Jodhpur believe that our namkeen—which includes pyaz ki kachori (a deep-fried pastry stuffed with onions and spices)—is the best.”
If you have a sweet tooth, you’re also in for a treat here. Sapna suggests trying local delicacies such as kesar jalebi (sugary saffron spirals) and rabri ghewar (a spongy pastry served in a condensed milk pudding). “My personal favorites are from a shop called Jodhpur Sweets in my hometown, Jodhpur,” she says. “They make the most amazing pistachio barfi [a fudge-like sweet made with nuts, sugar, and, sometimes, thickened milk], a thin cashew barfi with rose marmalade, and the best carrot halwa [a simmered treat made with nuts, milk, and sugar].”
Related: 15 Traditional Indian Foods and Drinks To Try on Your Next Trip
Sleep like a royal
While Sapna’s own Kaner Retreat is a fantastic place for an immersive desert experience, there are plenty of other places across the state that she also recommends for a good night’s sleep. She is a particular fan of 28 Kothi, an elegant, low-key guesthouse in Jaipur’s swanky Civil Lines neighborhood, away from the noise of the busy Pink City.
Many of Sapna’s favorite places to stay are converted palaces and forts—known in India as heritage hotels—located outside the big cities. Sapna recommends Chanoud Garh, a beautifully restored palace dating back to the early 18th century, and Shahpura Bagh, a former royal residence that makes a good overnight stop for travelers driving between Jaipur and Udaipur. Ramathra Fort is a great place for those wanting easy access to Ranthambore National Park, which is famous for its tiger safaris. It’s also not far from Keoladeo Ghana National Park, a popular birding destination in the neighboring state of Uttar Pradesh.
Bring Rajasthan home with you
Bring Rajasthan home with you Rajasthan is a fantastic place to shop, and many of India’s most celebrated handicrafts—from colorful textiles to intricate jewelry—are made in the state. Jaipur in particular is known for block-print textiles, and Sapna suggests browsing for them in the many shops surrounding the City Palace. The city is also home to upscale brands that reinterpret traditional block-printing textiles for a contemporary audience. Some of Sapna’s favorite brands include Anokhi—run by the same family that founded the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing—and RASA Jaipur. You can even try your hand at the traditional craft yourself (and bring home some handmade gifts) by taking a block-printing class.
Related: Trying my Hand at the Traditional Art of Block Printing in Jaipur
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