Scotland’s capital is filled with history and culture—and large numbers of tourists. For a fairly small city, Edinburgh can feel oppressively crowded around major tourist attractions and during peak times. (August is particularly bad.) But that’s not a reason to skip a visit. With some proactive and creative thinking, visitors can enjoy the city’s beauty and historic charm while dodging the biggest crowds. Here’s how.
Plan to get to big-name attractions, such as Edinburgh Castle and the National Museum of Scotland, early in the morning, close to opening time. When crowds start to descend in the late morning, head for open spaces; you can take a stroll around the Royal Botanic Gardens, for example, or have a picnic in the Meadows. And instead of battling the Royal Mile and Old Town crowds during the day, explore the cobblestoned streets and narrow closes and wynds (lanes and alleyways) in the evening when most visitors are inside having dinner. As a bonus, the area is also more atmospheric after dark.
The city comes alive in summer—especially in August when the world’s biggest arts festival, the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, is in full swing. But big events mean big crowds. Consider, instead, visiting during spring or fall. April and May are crisp but offer long daylight hours and blooming flowers. September and October are typically cool but not yet too cold. And if you really want to experience an Edinburgh festival, come during one of the fire festivals; Beltane, in April, and Samhain, in October, are lively affairs that attract more locals than tourists.
Most visitors spend most of their time in the Old and New Towns, but there’s no reason not to venture a little farther afield. Delightful Stockbridge is not quite a hidden gem, but it is always more peaceful than the main tourist hubs. Have lunch or cocktails at one of the area’s many bars and cafés or you could opt for a food-themed walking tour. Other options include the city’s old port, gritty Leith, which boasts lots of restaurants and pubs, or the West End, home to theaters and concert venues.
Head off the main tourist routes, and you’ll find a world of underground speakeasies, secret gardens, and other quieter attractions. When the weather is good, you can take a stroll along the leafy Water of Leith pathway, which runs all the way from Stockbridge to Leith, or enjoy serenity of Dr. Neil’s Garden (located near Duddingston Kirk, on the lower slopes of Arthur's Seat). For an indoor outing, pop into some of the city’s lesser-known museums, such as the curious Surgeons' Hall Museums, a treasure trove of surgical tools and anatomical specimens.
Edinburgh’s top attractions are popular for good reason, so if you can’t bear to leave the city without visiting hotspots such as Edinburgh Castle, the Palace of Holyroodhouse, and the Royal Yacht Britannia, book in advance and select tickets with skip-the-line access. Not only will you avoid having to wait in a long line surrounded by other tourists, you’ll also likely save money.
When deciding which tours to book, keep an eye out for private experiences, which can include anything from private walking tours of the city’s highlights to tours focused on Edinburgh’s hidden gems. Private tours ensure that you receive your guide’s full attention and promise a more intimate, flexible experience, so you can tailor the trip to your specific interests. Moreover, if the crowds descend, you can more easily move on to a quieter spot.
The word “beach” might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Edinburgh, but the city is located on the Firth of Forth, and a handful of stretches of golden sand are within easy reach. The coastal suburb of Portobello is perfect for a retro-style seaside outing full of ice cream parlors and old-school arcades, but it can get crowded on a sunny day. Quieter options farther along the coast include Gullane and Yellowcraig; the latter is especially good for spotting wildlife, including seabirds and dolphins.