An Art Lover’s Guide to Edinburgh

Make the National the first stop on your Edinburgh art tour. Housed in a grand neoclassical building on the Mound in the heart of the city, the National (which was formerly two institutions, the National Gallery of Scotland and the neighboring Royal Scottish Academy) is home to the most important historical art in Edinburgh. Its collection includes works by such artists as Vermeer, Titian, and Rembrandt, and its dedicated Scottish galleries showcase Scottish art from 1800 to 1945, including works by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, William McTaggart, and Phoebe Anna Traquair.

Formerly known as the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, the Modern encompasses two separate buildings—Modern Art One and Modern Art Two—and a sculpture park. This is the place to get a comprehensive view of modern art in Edinburgh, with paintings by Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso, drawings by Tracey Emin, sculptures by Alexander Calder, and Scottish artists Eduardo Paolozzi and Nathan Coley. Just off the Water of Leith Walkway, the 30-minute walk between here and the National makes for a pleasant stroll.

The final link in the National Galleries Scotland chain is Portrait (formerly the National Portrait Gallery). Housed in a neo-Gothic building in the New Town, Portrait tells visitors the stories of Scotland through its people. Portraits here range from historical figures such as Mary Queen of Scots, Robert Burns, and Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) to contemporary characters, including Billy Connolly and Tilda Swinton. Don’t miss the Great Hall, where a processional frieze depicts 155 figures from Scottish history.

On top of Edinburgh’s Calton Hill, Collective is housed in the neoclassical City Observatory. This former astronomical observatory had been left derelict before the artist-run gallery moved in in 2018. Collective hosts contemporary art exhibitions, workshops, artist talks, and more and supports emerging artists. While there, make reservations for Collective’s restaurant, The Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage, which offers spectacular views across Edinburgh.

For more than 20 years, Ingleby Gallery has established itself as one of Scotland’s most respected private contemporary art galleries. Housed in a historic building—a former place of worship of a small Scottish religious sect—a short stroll from the St. James Quarter, the gallery hosts an ambitious program of exhibitions by established and emerging artists.

With six exhibition galleries, the City Art Centre is likely to have something to pique your interest. Handily located directly behind Edinburgh Waverley railway station, the City Art Centre is home to the City of Edinburgh’s art collection, which includes works by the most important Scottish artists from the 17th century to the present day, including Allan Ramsay, Sir Henry Raeburn, William McTaggart, and Joan Eardley. The museum also hosts rotating temporary painting, photography, and crafts exhibitions.

Around 10 miles (16 kilometers) west of Edinburgh’s city center, Jupiter Artland is an outdoor contemporary sculpture park located on the grounds of a 19th-century country house. Large-scale artworks by the likes of Charles Jencks, Nathan Coley, Andy Goldsworthy, Jim Lambie, and Anthony Gormley are spread along a trail that leads you around the park’s sprawling gardens, meadows, and woodland while an indoor gallery hosts temporary exhibitions. The park is open between May and September.

Taking place during Edinburgh’s renowned festival season in August, the Edinburgh Art Festival is the UK’s largest annual festival of visual arts. Each year, the festival hosts dozens of exhibitions around the city, from galleries to the streets, organized around a theme. The festival’s programming always includes a solid lineup of artist talks and other events.

If you fancy taking a piece of Edinburgh’s art scene home with you, head down to the district of Leith and into the Ocean Terminal shopping center. On the first floor, the Leith Collective brings together more than 65 artists and creatives to sell their work, from paintings and jewelry to upcycled clothing.