The scrappy, down-to-earth capital of Albania might not be a household name like Rome or Paris, but don’t underestimate Tirana. The city has a wealth of things to do and is built for exploring on foot, starting with sprawling, monument-filled Skanderbeg Square and its Ottoman-era stone mosque, Et’hem Bey. Once behind the Iron Curtain, the Balkan nation opened to tourists in the late 1980s. Visitors can still find reminders of its communist past, including artful commemorations—from the eerie, subterranean bunkers converted into galleries to the astonishing House of Leaves museum, documenting surveillance practices under the dictatorship.