Angkor Wat is everywhere in Cambodia, from its flag to its money. So, you’d be forgiven for thinking the Kingdom of Wonder referred only to this historic and cultural temple complex. But even though Angkor Wat is big—and it is pretty massive—there is a whole other country out there just waiting to be explored. From lush jungle to misty mountains and from city streets to palm-fringed islands, here are some of the best things to do in Cambodia—that aren’t Angkor Wat.
These days, most visitors to Cambodia know little about the mass genocide that wiped out over a quarter of its population a few decades ago. This just goes to show how far Cambodia has come in its recovery. But “dark tourism” sites like the Choeung Ek Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Prison (S21) in Phnom Penh, though difficult to visit, offer important insights into the horrors committed by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge regime during the 1970s. Beyond the capital, visit the Wat Thmey killing fields, the Landmine Museum, and the APOPO Visitor Center in Siem Reap.
Outside the cities, Cambodia is a wild wonderland, with plunging waterfalls, crater lakes, and misty mountains just waiting to be explored. An outdoor adventure lover's dream, thrill-seekers can hike, bike, kayak, raft, zipline, and ATV their way through the jungle around Siem Reap; ride the bamboo train in Battambang; or try their hand at caving and rock climbing in Kampot. If that all sounds too tame, head east to Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri, where you’ll find yourself off the usual tourist trail and in a world of adventure.
Cambodia's lush jungles have long been home to an impressive array of animals including elephants, sun bears, gibbons, mouse deer, panthers, Asian wild dogs, and leopard cats. Travelers hoping to catch a glimpse of these creatures are best off heading to a wildlife sanctuary or joining a tour.
Keo Seima Wildlife Sanctuary in [Mondulkiri](Keo Seima Wildlife Sanctuary) is a great place to start. Though, you can also visit elephant sanctuaries, such as the Elephant Valley Project, or take a ranger-led visit through some of the country’s other national parks.
A small section of the Mekong is home to some of the world's last Irrawaddy dolphins. Travelers hoping to see this critically endangered species—known for their snub noses and happy-looking smiles—can hop on board a boat from the colonial town of Kratie or the eco-tourism village of Preah Rumkel. Although the dolphins are the highlight, the scenery on the river is beautiful and there's plenty more to see, too, from flooded forests to local villages with people fishing and living their lives on the banks of the river.
Although Cambodia’s coastline has undergone some not-so-great renovations in recent years, there are still plenty of beaches offering sand, sea, and sparkly swims under the stars with glowing plankton. From Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem to Koh Ta Kiev or Koh Tonsay, the islands all have their own charm, while the mainland beaches of Kep, Otres, and Ream National Park also offer travelers a chance to view the sparkling spectacle.
Okay, so there are some temples that have made it onto this list. But that’s only because there are heaps of temples dotted across the Cambodian country that are almost as cool as Angkor, but without the crowds. Highlights include the pyramid temple of Koh Ker Prasat Preah Vihear—the temple in the sky, which has a fascinating history and bullet-scarred exterior—and the 6th-century temple complex of Sambor Prei Kuk, a UNESCO World Heritage Site near Kompong Thom.
Cambodia may not be best known for its cuisine, but foodies certainly won’t be disappointed, especially in cosmopolitan centers like Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, which have an especially vibrant dining (and drinking) scene. A little further afield, Kampot, Battambang, and Sen Monorom all have decent options too, while the fresh Kampot pepper crab in Kep is alone worth the journey from the capital. Cambodian specials include amok and lok-lak—which you can even learn to make in a cooking class—as well as some solid street food, which is best discovered on a tour.
Phare, the Cambodian Circus in Siem Reap, is not only one of the country’s most enthralling shows, but it’s also one of its most sustainable enterprises. From the red big top made of recycled bottles to the show itself, which features artists who have all gone through Phare’s circus school, this nonprofit helps give street kids new skills and new lives, with some even going on to join Cirque du Soleil.
The National Museum of Cambodia is home to some of the most important findings from Angkor Wat. Although the individual pieces can never quite compare to touring the temples, it’s a great way to learn more about Cambodian history, with plenty of pre-Angkorian relics dating back to the Funan and Chenla periods.
Next door, the Royal Palace of Cambodia’s impressive Throne Hall and Silver Pagoda are also worth a visit, as is the Napoleon III Pavilion, which was built in Egypt for the inauguration of the Suez Canal, before being gifted to King Norodom and shipped to Cambodia in 1876.
If there’s one thing Cambodia does right, it’s riverside relaxation. From the mighty Mekong to the Tonle Sap and the Teuk Chhou River in Kampot, Cambodia’s rivers have long been the lifeblood of the country. While Phnom Penh is known for its beautiful riverside, this extends to plenty of other places in the country too, with Battambang, Kratie, and Kampong Cham also renowned for their waterfront vistas. Taking the riverfront relaxation crown is Kampot, with its floating bungalows, hammock-strung jetties, and stand-up paddleboard tours through the lush mangroves.