Dress Like a Local: What To Wear in Tokyo

There is a public tendency toward fastidiousness in Japan. Caring for your clothes is standard; rarely will you see a ragged hem, torn shirt, or sloppy ensemble. It doesn’t have to be expensive, but smart and tidy goes a long way here.

In Japan, seasonal dress is very important. In kimono styles, for instance, flower or foliage patterns are expected to match the season. In more casual terms, shorts, sandals, and short sleeves should be kept to the warmer months, while longer sleeves and suit jackets brought out in the cooler months. In business, there’s even a term for it: Cool Biz, which reminds workers to wear short sleeves and ditch the ties between May and September. That said, you’ll likely still need one warmer layer in the summer, as shops and restaurants crank up the air-conditioning.

Tokyoite Tamy Ozeki, who has been a fashion model in Japan for 35 years, knows a few things about Tokyo style. She advises that visitors might find the fashion here a bit more modest than back home, as it’s not usual to show a lot of skin—for any gender. “Avoid shirts that show cleavage, belly-exposing shirts, tank tops that resemble lingerie without a shirt on top, and anything transparent that shows part of your underwear.” She also recommends avoiding super short skirts or shorts. “Showing a lot of skin will be seen as inappropriate, especially by older people, but younger people may not mind as much.”

You’re likely to be walking a lot in Tokyo—especially if you opt for city walking tours—so opt for comfortable-yet-fashionable shoes. Choose something that’s easy to slip on and off, as you’ll need to remove your shoes at temples, in homes, and in some traditional shops or restaurants. Sandals are sometimes worn, but flip-flops are strictly beach attire only.

Insider tip: Stash a pair of clean socks in your bag if you plan to take your shoes off. Bare feet, and especially dirty feet, on tatami is a serious misstep.

Tokyo’s so big and busy that there’s a good chance you’ll be out for many hours at a time, likely traveling by train or subway, so you’ll need to carry your essentials with you. You’ll need a bag that’s stylish, practical, and not too bulky—taking up loads of space during rush hour is frowned upon.

Make sure there’s room for cash as well as cards (many places still only take cash), plus a power bank to keep your phone charged. A stored-value train card, available at most stations, is useful to have, as it can be used across lines, in stores, and for vending machines. Tokyoites often carry their own washcloth or handkerchief, as restrooms don’t always have drying facilities. On rainy days, an umbrella is a must—get a clear plastic one for a few hundred yen at the conbini or treat yourself to a fancy, folding one from a department store as a souvenir.

Related: Tokyo Do’s and Don’ts: 10 Unwritten Rules That Every Tokyoite Knows

Dress norms remain fairly rigid in Japan and Tokyo fashion can sometimes seem monochromatic, as if the whole city is dressed in Uniqlo. But there is plenty of room for creativity amidst the stiff shirts, especially in neighborhoods such as Omotesando, where you’ll see divas draped in Issey Miyaki and Limi Feu, or over in Kichijoji, Musashino, where quirky vintage looks and band t-shirts rule the streets.

Kimono etiquette is full of rigid rules that can be tricky for tourists to pick up on. For example, only the dead should be dressed with robes folded right over left. If you’re keen to try on the traditional garment yourself, avoid any potential embarrassment by hiring a professional dresser, who will guide you through the process and teach you more about its cultural meaning. Some combine the experience with a photoshoot, so you get pictures to take home … plus peace of mind that you haven’t made any faux pas.