How to Get Off the Beaten Path in Dublin

Want to really get off the beaten path? Get in the sea. A lot of people only realize Dublin is a coastal city when their plane is landing, but the shoreline is easily accessible on the DART trainline. Head down to Dalkey, the boujee coastal village that Bono calls home, and take a kayaking trip out around Dublin Bay. You’ll get a killer view of the coastline from the water, and the colony of seals that live around Dalkey Island will likely swim up to say hello.

Like any big city, the best food is generally found outside of the main tourist hubs. Move away from any of the blatantly Irish-themed restaurants and hit up the smaller spots down Aungier Street and William Street South that serve up proper Dublin food, such as artisanal cheese and brown bread ice cream. If time is short, a food tour is a great shortcut, led by people who know exactly where to find the best eats in town. Dublin is also a city that loves its donuts, so follow the scent of freshly fried dough and cinnamon sugar if you have a sweet tooth.

Dublin street artists—such as Maser—may now be major players on the global art scene, but there are plenty of other pieces on nondescript Dublin walls that are well worth a detour. As well as Maser’s pieces that are mostly in the city center, there’s some incredible street art in Smithfield, including giant psychedelic murals and lifelike line drawings from Subset.

The fishing village of Howth is just a 30-minute train ride from the city center, but feels like it could be on the west coast of Ireland. With excellent seafood restaurants, a pretty harbor, and pristine beaches, it makes for a perfect day trip on a sunny day. Be sure to hike the cliff path, which leads you over the heather-covered hills for killer views of the coastline and distant islands. Then, reward yourself with a pint of Guinness in one of the village’s coziest pubs.

Sure, the bigger whiskey distilleries such as Jameson are always going to hold some appeal. But they’re also much, much busier. Better, then, to head out to Dublin’s burgeoning collection of newer, boutique distilleries, including Teeling Whiskey in the Blackpitts. You’ll get a more intimate tour of the distillery—along with the obligatory whiskey tasting—and can finish things up with a grilled cheese sandwich in the café. An added bonus? You get to wander around the historic Blackpitts neighborhood when you’re done.

While other people are walking elbow-to-elbow around the city center, there won’t be another soul on the River Liffey (apart from a kayaker or two). On a river cruise, you get to see the buildings that line Dublin’s main waterway, from the Georgian townhouses to the gleaming office blocks along the Docklands. You’ll also get a unique vantage point of Dublin’s iconic crossings, as you sail under the Ha’penny bridge and the modern Samuel Beckett Bridge.

The best way to see a city is always through the eyes of a local. But it’s even better when that local gives you a unique insight into their home town. The guides on this walking tour have all been affected by homelessness, and lead small groups around the neighborhoods of Smithfield and the Liberties, combining history, street art, and their own perspective of the streets on which they lived.

If you really want to avoid the crowds, there’s only one thing to do: leave the city. The Wicklow Mountains and Glendalough are just an hour outside of Dublin, which means you can see them in half a day, getting your fill of the dramatic mountains and calm lakes of one of Ireland’s most beautiful national parks. Be sure to bring your walking shoes, though—the trails here are some of the best in the country.