Pizza in Naples: A Historical and Practical Guide to Finding the Best Slice

Ask about the origins of this pizza, however, and locals are more precise. The story begins with the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans who ate flatbreads that were doused in olive oil and topped with herbs and cheeses. In Virgil’s Aeneid, written nearly 2,000 years ago, Aeneas’ son marvels that his father’s companions set out “cakes of bread” topped with “forest fruits” only to “devour the plates on which we fed.” In other words, he discovers the enduring convenience of pizza.

In the 16th century, the introduction of tomatoes from the New World changed the pizza-making game forever. While the new ingredient was originally unpopular (thanks to its novelty and Renaissance eaters’ distrust of vegetables), it eventually gained traction, and in the 18th century, pizza evolved from its previous focaccia-like form into more or less what we see today—pies covered with tomato sauce.

Like many popular Italian foods, pizza was first made for the poor. Along with polenta, carbonara, and other staples, it’s part of the cucina povera tradition (literally, “poor kitchen”), the practice of preparing food with affordable, readily available ingredients. In Naples, street vendors once hawked pizza to day laborers who needed easy meals between jobs. So destitute were the laborers, the vendors called them Lazzaroni because they resembled Lazarus—that is, they seemed nearly dead.

During the period of Italian unification (the Risorgimento), Queen Margherita of Savoy—the first queen of the Kingdom of Italy—visited Naples eager to sample the local specialties. Asked for recommendations, Raffaele Esposito, a renowned pizzaiolo, presented her with several types of pizza. Legend has it that she gave royal approval to a pie prepared with tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil—ingredients that mimicked the colors of the new Italian flag. The pizzaiolo named it after her, Margherita, and the rest is history.

In the 1980s, pizzaioli began to standardize the Neapolitan pizza as a way of protecting their cultural heritage. Since 1984, the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (True Neapolitan Pizza Association) has set regulations that pizzerias around the world must follow to receive their official approval. According to the association, the diameter of a Neapolitan pizza should not exceed 35 centimeters, and the cooking time must remain between 60 and 90 seconds. Pizzaioli must “move the air in the dough from the center toward the periphery” and use only fresh basil, oregano, and tomatoes free from genetic modification.

Is Neapolitan pizza the sum of these parts? Master pizzaiolo Antonio Donnarumma once said, “[Making pizza] is neither a job nor an occupation—it’s an art.” That is likely closer to the truth. Pizza remains one of the great mysteries of Naples, a city more likely to cast a spell or occasion a miracle than give you a straight answer.

Today, a proper slice in Naples should never cost more than €10. Old-school eateries strive to charge €5 or €6 for the essentials: Margheritas, marinaras, or pizza bianca (white pizza), a version usually topped with only cheese and arugula—no tomato sauce. Here are our recommendations for where to find authentic pizza in Naples.

Da Concettina ai Tre Santi, Rione Sanità: This old-school pizza spot has been the beating heart of the Sanità neighborhood’s food scene since the 1950s. The father-and-son bosses honor Neapolitan traditions while embracing innovation, and you’ll also find creative fried foods and stuffed miniature “mountains” on the menu. Come for an early lunch (by Italian standards) or for late dinner, as da Concettina is usually open until midnight.

Starita a Materdei, Materdei: Over the course of a century, Starita has expanded from the humble Materdei neighborhood to Turin, Milan, and New York. Thankfully, the essential pizzas are still €5 at the Naples location. While marinara is king, they serve a marvelous variation commonly found in Rome called fiorilli e zucchine, or “squash blossoms and zucchini.”

La Notizia, Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, Fuorigrotta: La Notizia is in the Fuorigrotta neighborhood, which is too far to walk from the city center, but the trip is well worth it. Order a Margherita or the San Gennaro, an anchovy and yellow tomato concoction named after the patron saint of Naples. The pizza del contadino (peasant pizza) is a standout calzone with cheese and escarole.

50 Kalò, Mergellina: A relative newcomer, 50 Kalò is a new-wave pizzeria that combines traditional know-how with (some) seasonal ingredients and local sourcing. Third-generation pizzaiolo Ciro Salvo creates exceptional dough using highly-hydrated, low-protein flour—pizza kitchen sorcery for the layperson. The Margherita and diavola pizzas are both first-rate.

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, Centro Storico (Historic Center): If you only have time to visit one pizzeria, da Michele is your best bet. But know that this famous no-frills institution has imitators, knock-offs that bank on having the same name to confuse tourists. The original location is near Corso Umberto I, where Via Cesare Sersale and Via Pietro Colletta meet. If the long line wears down your patience, muscle your way to the counter and order pizza to-go—they’ll bring it outside to you in no time.

Rosticceria Vaco e’ Presse, Piazza Dante:Vaco e’ presse translates roughly to “I’m in a hurry” in the Neapolitan dialect. Fried pizza served to-go from the sidewalk counter is the main draw here—though you have to place your order inside. In-the-know Neapolitans looking for a seat away from the bustle of Piazza Dante slip past the cash register to the dining tables in the back.