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Beneath its beautifully bright facade, Oaxaca City harbors a rather spooky soul. It is the epicenter of Mexico’s annual Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos) celebrations and was the inspiration for the delightfully dark Pixar movie Coco. But things to do in Oaxaca aren’t just limited to admiring ofrendas (altars) and painting your face skull-style—the state capital is a culinary hot spot that serves up local delicacies against a backdrop of pastel-painted walls, wood-paneled mezcal bars, cactus-lined gardens, and an open-air museum of street art. Plus, it’s within day-tripping distance of the otherworldly Hierve el Agua nature reserve, home to a petrified waterfall and natural hot springs.
To fully immerse yourself in Oaxaca City’s greatest claim to fame—the Day of the Dead celebrations—visit at the end of October. The festival generally runs from October 31 until November 6, and the town comes to life with parades, music performances, and candlelit vigils in its graveyards. Just bear in mind that this is (understandably) the busiest tourist season, so accommodations fill up months in advance. You’ll find fewer crowds and still relatively mild temperatures from December through April before the wet season begins in May.
Oaxaca is a very walkable city—particularly the rainbow-hued neighborhoods of Jalatlaco and Xochimilco. It has a relatively low crime rate that is ideal for relaxed wanders, provided you take the usual precautions. It’s home to an international airport that welcomes flights from across South America and the United States, plus a bus station that connects you to Mexico City and cities and towns throughout Oaxaca state, such as the popular surf spot of Puerto Escondido.
You’ll be hard-pushed to find a list of Mexico’s culinary hot spots that doesn’t include Oaxaca, so come hungry. The state is most famous for its mole (a rich sauce that generally combines chillis, chocolate, and nuts, but has endless variations) and tlayudas (open, crispy tortillas layered with beans and meat). Other must-tries include chapulines (deep-fried grasshoppers tossed with chili and salt) and, of course, mezcal, a fiery spirit made from agave harvested from the fields of Oaxaca state. You can find them all in the bustling 20 de Noviembre Market (Mercado 20 de Noviembre).
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The must-visit attractions in Oaxaca City include Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church (Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán), a butter-colored Baroque church that serves as the city’s symbol; the Ethnobotanical Garden, home to hundreds of native flora; and Benito Juárez Market (Mercado Benito Juárez), ideal for souvenirs and street food.
...MoreThe best day trips from Oaxaca City are Hierve el Agua, an elevated nature reserve with a monolithic petrified waterfall; the artisan village of Teotitlán del Valle in the foothills of the Sierra Juárez mountains; and the archaeological site of Monte Alban, a 2,500-year-old former Zapotec city.
...MoreThe best places the find street food in Oaxaca City are Abastos Market (Central de Abastos) and 20 de Noviembre Market (Mercado 20 de Noviembre), both of which sell street food staples such as tlayudas, tacos, and crispy fried chapulines. Benito Juárez Market (Mercado Benito Juárez) also has some stalls but is best for souvenir shopping.
...MoreWhile Dia de los Muertos in November is the most famous, there are plenty of other festivals in Oaxaca City throughout the year. The Mezcal Festival takes place in July, as does Guelaguetza (or La Fiesta Maxima), which celebrates the diversity of each Oaxacan region in the state. The quirkiest is the Night of Radishes in December when locals carve—you guessed it—radishes in the main square.
...MoreJust off the main square, Benito Juárez Market (Mercado Benito Juárez) is the best place in Oaxaca City for traditional crafts and souvenirs—it sells woven baskets, trinkets, and coffee and mole powder that make great gifts. For the best market in the region, head to Teotitlán del Valle morning market, famed for its traditional Zapotec textiles and mezcal.
...MoreOften called the culinary capital of Mexico, Oaxaca City offers plenty of cooking classes and culinary experiences. You can take food-tasting market tours, evening street food experiences, guided mezcal-tasting sessions, and traditional or vegetarian cooking classes that include shopping for ingredients at a market.
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